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Friday, November 29, 2013

Cream Soups

These deliciously creamy soups are made with the simplest of ingredients, and have a smooth, velvety texture achieved by thickening them with cream, egg yolks (or a combination of both) or flour. Although stock is called for in some of the recipes, you can use a bouillon cube - but remember they are rather salty, so allow for this when seasoning (or use them half strength).

Fresh vegetables (especially green vegetables) are popular choices for cream soups. Cooking the chopped vegetables in a little butter or polyunsaturated margarine until soft is an important step in making creamy soups, as some care has to be taken not to brown them or the color and flavor of the finished soup will be spoilt. The simplest way to soften the vegetables is to melt the butter or margarine in a saucepan, add the vegetables and toss well, then place a double circle of greaseproof paper over them and push it down. Cover the saucepan and cook over a very gentle heat for about 15 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally.

To Thicken Soups

If using cream: put in a bowl, blend in a little of the hot but not boiling soup, then stir back into the pan of soup and reheat but do not boil.

If using egg yolks: blend with a little cold milk or cream in a bowl, mix in a little of the hot soup, then stir back into the pan of soup; then reheat very gently but do not boil or else the egg will curdle.

If using flour: blend with a little cold milk or other liquid in a bowl, mix in a little hot soup, then pour back into the pan, bring to the boil and cook for a few minutes until thickened.

An electric blender or food processor is a marvellous asset, especially for creamy soups - it gives them a good texture. Always process or puree soups in small batches at a time. Overfilling a blender or food processor causes an overflow.

The Recipes

Cauliflower Cream Soup

Serves 6

You will need:
 •1 medium cauliflower
 •4 cups chicken stock
 •1/3 cup milk
 •Salt and pepper
 •Pinch grated nutmeg
 •2 egg yolks
 •¼ cup cream

Method:

Remove outside leaves from cauliflower and break into florets. Reserve a few sprigs for garnish. Drop cauliflower into a pan of boiling salted water and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and press through a sieve or puree in an electric blender. Place in a pan, add stock and bring slowly to the boil. Add milk and seasonings.
Combine egg yolks with cream and a little of the hot soup, blend well and return to pan. Cook gently until soup thickens without boiling. Garnish with sprigs of raw cauliflower and serve immediately.

Cream of Artichoke Soup

Serves 4

You will need:
 •3 spring onions
 •6 globe artichokes
 •Juice of 1 lemon
 •¼ pound (100 g) butter of polyunsaturated margarine
 •7 tablespoons all-purpose flour
 •4 ¼ cups milk
 •Salt and pepper
 •½ cup heavy cream

Method:

Peel and chop the spring onions. Remove the artichoke leaves and hairy choke in the center. Trim the artichoke hearts and rub them in the lemon juice to stop them turning black. Cut them into quarters.
Gently heat 1 ounce (30 g) butter or margarine in a pan. Put in the artichoke hearts and the spring onions, cover and cook on a low heat for 10 minutes. During this time melt the rest of the butter in another pan. Mix in the flour to make a smooth paste (roux) and cook for about 2 minutes, but without letting it brown. Remove the pan from the heat and blend in the milk, little by little, beating continuously with a wooden spoon. When smooth, return the pan to the heat and bring to the boil; season with salt and pepper and cook gently for 5 minutes.
Pour this white sauce over the artichokes and spring onions mixture and simmer 30 minutes. Then remove 2 artichoke hearts and cut them into tiny dice. Puree the rest in a blender or work through a sieve (strainer).
Heat a soup tureen. Pour in the cream, add the diced artichoke and pour over the hot soup. Stir well and serve immediately.

Cream of Carrot Soup

Serves 6

You will need:
 •1 ounce (30 g) butter or polyunsaturated margarine
 •4 medium carrots
 •1 onion
 •5 cups hot chicken stock or water
 •1 teaspoon salt
 •Generous pinch cayenne pepper
 •¼-½ cup cream or yogurt
 •Chopped parsley or chervil

Method:

Melt butter in a saucepan, add sliced carrots and onion and cook gently until softened, about 10 minutes. Add 2 cups chicken stock or water and bring to the boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Rub through a sieve or puree in a blender. Add salt and cayenne. Return soup to pan and heat gently with remaining stock, swirl in cream or yogurt. Sprinkle with chopped parsley or chervil before serving.

Cream of Celery Soup

Serves 6

You will need:
 •½ head celery
 •1 small onion
 •1 ounce (30 g) butter or polyunsaturated margarine
 •3 cups chicken stock
 •Salt and pepper
 •1 tablespoon all-purpose (plain) flour
 •1 cup milk
 •2 egg yolks
 •3 tablespoons cream or yogurt

Method:

Remove strings from celery, slice finely. Chop onion finely. Cook gently in half the butter or margarine until soft, then add hot stock. Season with salt and pepper and simmer gently for about 20-30 minutes. Pass through a sieve or blend in an electric blender. Melt remaining butter or margarine in a large pan, stir in flour off the heat and cook gently until straw-colored. Blend in milk and celery puree, then return to heat and stir until boiling. Simmer for 2-3 minutes, stirring, and check seasoning. Take pan off heat, add 1-2 tablespoons hot soup to beaten egg yolks mixed with cream, then stir this gently into soup. Reheat gently but do not allow to boil. Serve with croutons of fried bread.
In place of egg yolks, 1 teaspoon cornflour can be used to thicken soup. Mix cornflour with cream and hot soup as with egg yolks.

Cream of Green Pea Soup

Serves 4

You will need:
 •1 ½ cups frozen peas
 •1 cup water
 •1 bay leaf
 •Sprig fresh thyme
 •Pinch sugar
 •½ cup milk
 •½ cup cream or evaporated milk
 •Salt and pepper

Method:

Do not thaw peas. Bring water to the boil with bay leaf, thyme and sugar. Add peas and boil for 5 minutes. Remove bay leaf and puree peas in a blender until smooth, or push through a sieve. Add milk and cream. Bring to the boil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with crisp bacon or croutons, depending on whether you want to make more of a meal of the soup.

Haricot Bean Cream Soup

Serves 8

You will need:
 •5 ounces (155 g) butter
 •½ cup flour
 •5 cups chicken stock
 •2 ½ cups chicken consomme
 •12 ounces (375 g) white haricot beans, soaked in cold water overnight, drained, cooked and pureed
 •1 teaspoon salt
 •½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
 •1 cup cream
 •6 egg yolks, lightly beaten

Method:

In a large saucepan, melt 2 ounces (60 g) of the butter over moderate heat. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the flour until the mixture forms a thick paste. Gradually add the stock, stirring constantly and being careful to avoid lumps. Return the pan to the heat and cook, stirring constantly, for 2-3 minutes or until the soup is thick and smooth. Stir in the consomme, then the bean puree. Season with the salt and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, for a further 3 minutes.
Stir in the cream and the remaining butter. Place the egg yolks in a small mixing bowl. Using a fork, beat in 4 tablespoons of the hot soup. Stir the egg yolk mixture into the soup. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, for a further 10 minutes. Do not allow the soup to come to the boil or the egg yolks will scramble.
Remove the pan from the heat. Ladle the soup into a large, warmed soup tureen or individual soup bowls and serve at once.

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